What Is Ramie Fabric? A Beginner’s Guide

In this post, I’ll share my personal experience shopping for and sewing with ramie fabric, compare it to linen, offer some tips for sewing with ramie, and share some project inspirations.

As a sewist, I didn’t hear about ramie until this year when I was diving down a rabbit hole, searching for fabric to make dresses inspired by traditional Chinese styles that I could wear daily.

During my fabric shopping and making garments with ramie, I’ve learn a thing or two with the fabric and would like to share my learnings for anyone who is interested in this fabric.

Introduction to Ramie Fabric: What is Ramie Fabric?

Ramie is a natural fiber that comes from the stalks of the Boehmeria nivea plant, a nettle family member. In fact, ramie fabric has been a staple in Chinese textile production for thousands of years. It is commonly used to make summer clothes, which is why it is nicknamed “Xiabu” in Chinese culture, meaning “Summer fabric.”

The production of ramie fabric is very similar to linen, which is why I like to refer it as Chinese Linen for anyone who is not familiar with this fabric.

Ramie fabric is a strong, eco-friendly material, and is very breathable. It is often in plain weave and used for making summer clothes.

Ramie fabric has a slight luster, which I found quite fascinating. You can see in this photo below that it has a subtle sheen, compared to cotton or linen.

Choosing Ramie Fabric

When selecting ramie fabric for your project, the first consideration is choosing the right thread count.

When choosing the right thread count for ramie fabric, you’ll notice a few common options while shopping: 42, 60, and 100. The higher the thread count, the denser the weave and the thinner the threads, making the fabric more lightweight and see-through. There are also 14 and 21 counts, which are less see-through, but they are less common in my shopping experience. 

There’s also enzyme-washed ramie fabric, which tends to be softer. I have both enzyme-washed and non-enzyme-washed ramie in my collection, and while I don’t see a huge difference in appearance or texture, the enzyme-washed fabric does feel slightly softer and less crisp. Overall, I have a slight preference for the enzyme-washed version, but it’s not a dealbreaker.

Characteristics of Ramie Fabric

Ramie fabric has many great characteristics, along with some cons. Here are my observations when working with them for garment sewing.

Pros of Ramie Fabric

Strength and Durability

Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers. The first time I noticed this was when I tried to do a small scissor cut and then tear the fabric in two pieces, something I usually do with cotton to get a straight edge. 

However, when I tried to tear the ramie fabric, I found it was much harder to pull apart. The threads tear in long, noticeable strands, and the fabric bunched up a bit near the tear site, showing just how strong and tough ramie fiber is. 

Here’s a photo of my tear test comparing linen(top) and ramie(bottom)—you’ll see the ramie tear is fuzzier, with longer fibers.

Breathability and Comfort

Much like linen, Ramie is very breathable and comfortable. Because the fabric is thin and the fibers are fine, it feels incredibly lightweight – almost like wearing a cloud. 

It’s perfect for summer clothes, like tops or even long-sleeved summer jackets that block the sun without making you feel hot. 

Resistance to Mold and Bacteria

Ramie’s natural resistance to mold, mildew, and bacteria makes it an excellent choice for humid climates. This property ensures that your garments stay fresh longer, reducing the need for frequent washing—a win for both your wardrobe and the environment.

Eco-Friendly

Ramie requires fewer pesticides and less water to grow compared to cotton. And since ramie is made entirely of plant fiber, it’s easy to decompose, making it an environmentally friendly option.

Cons of Ramie Fabric

Wrinkling and Creasing

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One of ramie’s downsides is its tendency to wrinkle easily, similar to linen. Here’s a side-by-side comparison of how linen and ramie wrinkle after being squeezed by hand.

The good news is that removing wrinkles is easy—I don’t even need to iron it. What I like to do is to hang the garment then mist the fabric with water until it’s slightly damp, and let it dry. On a warm day it will take a few hours. This will smooth out most of the wrinkles.

Here’s a before and after comparison of spraying water to remove wrinkles. It works like magic!

Transparency

Another thing to consider with ramie is its transparency. It’s certainly not see-through like organza, but I’d describe it as an opaque fabric that you can see a hint of what’s underneath – Think of a lightweight fabric in a light color.

I’m totally fine wearing a ramie top without a lining if I wore a skin-colored bra. However, for pants, even with skin-toned undergarments, the light shining through the fabric can reveal the silhouette of your legs, which I find a bit awkward. So, I personally would line skirts or pants made from ramie fabric with some lightweight lining fabric.

Stiffness

As for stiffness, the fabric does soften with each wash, just like linen, but because ramie fibers are so strong, it’s less drapey and more stiff. Because of that, I wouldn’t use this fabric for patterns that call for a lot of drape. it’s better suited for something more on the flowy side, like a gathered dress.

I also don’t recommend using Ramey fabric for anything that’s very fitted, as this fabric doesn’t provide elasticity and can wrinkle easily. So flowy clothes makes the best sewing projects for this fabric.

Sewing with Ramie Fabric

Sewing with Ramie can be a little bit tricky since it is thin and slightly shifty. I’d rate the sewing difficulty as 2/5 stars —it’s slightly harder than cotton but easier than slippery fabrics like rayon or silk.

Sewing Tips When Working with Ramie

Ramie’s lightweight and somewhat slippery nature means it can shift easily. One tip is to position your fabric straight, place many fabric weights, and use a rotary cutter for precise cuts. 

Ramie also frays more easily than cotton, so be careful when hemming. I recommend using at least a half-inch seam allowance to avoid issues.

If you’re using bias tape, consider adding lightweight interfacing to make it stiffer, or you can use fabric stiffener. Alternatively, cut a wider bias tape, fold in half then use it for a three-fold finish to increase sturdiness.

My Garment Sewing Projects with Ramie

I’ve made a few projects with ramie fabric, and I have more in my sewing queue since I have more ramie fabric in my stash. 

Overall speaking, I’ve really enjoyed working with this fabric, and the finished garments are lightweight and breathable—very comfortable to wear.

Here’s a traditional Chinese-style dress I made. It was my first experience sewing with ramie fabric.

Here’s a loose-fitting dress I made with square neck. In this dress, I used ramie as the main fabric and lined it with a tencel cotton blend on bodice and skirt.

Last but not least, I recently made this gathered top that I use as a summer pajama top.  

Ramie vs. Linen: A Quick Comparison

When talking to people who aren’t familiar with ramie, I like to refer to it as “Chinese linen” because ramie and linen share quite a few similarities. Both are made from 100% plant fibers, are breathable, and have similar drapes, making them ideal for warm-weather clothing.

However, they also have some key differences.

Look and feel: Linen tends to look more relaxed and feels softer, while ramie is generally stiffer and has a smoother surface. 

Sheen: Linen is matte, whereas ramie has a slight luster or sheen. 

Thickness and transparency: Linen fabrics are typically thicker, made with heavier yarns, and are more opaque. In contrast, ramie is often seen in thinner fabrics with finer yarns, making it slightly translucent. Even when compared to lightweight linen, ramie is a bit more see-through.

If you’re interested in a detailed comparison between ramie and linen, let me know—I’ve worked with both fabrics extensively and would love to explore their differences further.

Conclusion

In conclusion, ramie fabric is strong, eco-friendly, and offers a unique combination of breathability and durability. Making them a great choice for making summer clothes. Like other natural fiber, it tend to wrinkle easily so if you don’t like the natural wrinkly look, ramie may not be for you.

Despite being a tiny bit see-through, you can easily solve it by adding a lining or choosing a thicker or darker fabric.

I encourage you to give ramie a try in your next project, whether it’s a summer dress or a chic top. You’ll love how it feels when you wear it.

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